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1982 OMC 3.8 rebuild
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:13 pm    Post subject: 1982 OMC 3.8 rebuild Reply with quote

Yes thats right... I believe after a short run today the engine locked up. My understanding is that this is a Chevy Block. My distributor is in the back of the motor. My question is since this is a chevy block, can I use a re-ring, bearing kit from an auto parts store? Don't know the detials inside yet but would someone please tell me if this will work.

Heres what happened:
Had it on the muffs... it was idleing at about 850-900 rpms. Was running pretty good. According to the temp gauge it was running at about 135-145. Water was circulating. (new impeller) It started making a hissing noise so I crawled over the bench seat to hit the key, but by the time I got there it died. Turned the key and it turned over slowly. Waited about 45 minutes and tried again. Fired right up but only ran for about 45 seconds. This motor made no clunking, or abnormal noise besides the hissing. Hoping it is not a warped cylinder. Now starter will engage but it will not turn over. Since the odds of the starter going bad or getting stuck (I got both bolt loose and it wants to fall out) are minimal I'm assuming a rebuild is in order. Since I trully feel like we will keep this boat for awhile I figure we will just rebuild the motor. Then we know whats in it. If I found a used one I may have the same issues. I've rebuilt auto motors before and can't imagine this one will be much different but curious about the parts.


Also I've pondered the thaught of finding a salvage motor, and converting it. However I have read that there is changes with the cam etc.
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I've done some checking on line and what I can come up with is the only differences is the cam and heads, and exhuast manifolds. Since I will be using the same heads, cam and exhaust I will assume I will be fine. The head gaskets are also marine grade. Which I believe now that I pulled the bench seat out and found the original chevy orange block. I found a re-ring and bearing kit for $152 shipped to my door.
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Calico
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the real important thing with an I/O is that all of the electronics are marinized for protection from a spark causing fire or explosion in the engine room.
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then I will have no issue since I'm using original add ons

Still haven't gotten the motor out. Don't really know what I'm waiting for..lol did get the bench seat in front of it out to make more room.
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the motor pulled and broke down... I pulled the pan and untightened the connecting rod nut/bolts. Took the bar and turned her right over. Now I'm debating on replacing just the rod bearings or doing a complete rebuild. Theres no marks or uneven wear on the crankshaft or connecting rods. It's a very clean block. I can still see the honning cross-hatch in the cylinder walls, and all rings look good. I believe that what happened is the shaft comming out of my oil pump broke one of it's 1/2 off. That piece was found in the pan, along with the nylon "keeper" I think it stopped pumping oil, spun a (the) bearings. Going to order parts for it on weds. I guess I'll talk to afew people and see what they think. I really think because of the condition of the walls, and rings I might just go with bearings... I'll see what others think.
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've talked to a few others and they think just replace the bearings, and oil pump of course.... I go in to Orielly's in the AM to order parts... they were cheaper then the others.... also All internal engine parts i have found are original GM parts...
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Wimperdink
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave JZ wrote:
I've talked to a few others and they think just replace the bearings, and oil pump of course.... I go in to Orielly's in the AM to order parts... they were cheaper then the others.... also All internal engine parts i have found are original GM parts...



Whats the diff between a normal car engine and a marine engine? Don't they have diff cranks and bearings and such?
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly.... All the internal parts.. are stamped GM... All original down to the bearings. The outside top of the motor was sprayed blue, the oil pan was blue... the block was orange. It was together when they sprayed it since the blue overlays the orange on the block were they meet. Under the valve covers are the overspray of orange.I have found not one part on this motor that I would not find in a stock Chevy motor. Pistons, rings, even the gaskets were stock Chevy motor. Crank is stock, as well as the heads, cam might be a a bit different but I trully doubt it. Intake and carb are all GM as well. Only thing I can find different is there are the drains on the block for the water jackets, and the oil dipstick was added to the oil pan drain (original hole on side of block plugged with aluminum)

It will be much cheaper knowing I can use Auto Parts since anything with "marine" is marked up so damn high
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Calico
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would assume most internal parts would be the same. The cam however I bet is different since a boat has only one 'gear' and needs to make torque over a broad RPM range. The big differences would be on the outside, manifolds, distributer, carburetor, alternator, anything that could make a spark and blow up the engine compartment.
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Wimperdink
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was reading an article within th last couple of months about rebuilding either a 2.8 v6 or 2.5 i4 (cant remember which at the time) and they were talking about a power boost during rebuild and they were installing specifically a marine engine crank. I don't know the diff between a marine engine crank and a regular automotive crank, but for them to want to hunt it down and install it for a power boost must make something different with it yeah?
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I don't know the diff between a marine engine crank and a regular automotive crank, but for them to want to hunt it down and install it for a power boost must make something different with it yeah?


I would Guess that a power boost will add much torque to the crank because of bored cylinders, high torque cam etc. With this torque I would guess that a "stronger" crank would be needed. IMO that is probably the difference, a stronger then stock part.

I am about 80% ready to start this motor. It is about 90% complete and will go back into the boat at about 95% The rest will have to be done from inside the boat. (including priming oil pump)

I trully know the oil pump was the cause.... I could not even get the shaft to turn with vise grips. # 5 cylinder had a spun bearing.. how did I know? When I cleaned up to install the bearing was still in this one (the only one) it sat about 1/4 out on one side. Took some might to get it out. Rod and cap looked good and held the new bearing tight. Motor still turns over by hand as easy as it did bare, true condition will be unknown until it runs. Sad a $17 oil pump can cause so much havok.

A guy from work worked for OMC many many years ago. I asked him if they tore down there motors to take out stock parts and he chuckled ok actually he about fell over laughing.... he said they were never paid enough to actually "work" on the motors... they just paired them to an outdrive as they came out of the crates... which came from GM with no indication they were ever built as "marine" engines. Besides painting them the lovely blue, they added the lovely OMC labels to the valve covers and installed them to the outdrive.



Today I came to realize how much I enjoyed working on motors in my past.
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Calico
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can be fun working on engines, as long as it's not along the side of the road or in the middle of the lake!
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is true... Well it's back in the boat and everything is back together. Ran out of time to run it today, so it will have to wait until tommorrow morning. I'll let everyone know how it goes
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Wimperdink
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave JZ wrote:
That is true... Well it's back in the boat and everything is back together. Ran out of time to run it today, so it will have to wait until tommorrow morning. I'll let everyone know how it goes



lol you've got more wait in you than I do. I've got a lot of quit, in me, but not much wait. I'd be firing it tonight.
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol... well I got everything back together and it was ready to fire. I left the fuel line off on purpose. It turned over just fine. I added a bit of fuel to the carb with a gas can and it fired... I decided that I would go ahead and hook the fuel line up and see if I could get it running steady.... NOPE.. it would just turn over... then it started to turn really hard. Decided that I would pull the plugs and see what was up. Pulled them all out and turned it over.... This is when the gas shot out of the back two cylinders. Yep you guessed it. The carb was pouring fuel into the intake. Really don't know how this happened since before the bearing issue the carb worked. I took it apart and tinkered with it... Got it a little better but it would still flood the cylinders out.

I Stopped there.... Came inside and ordered the Carb rebuild kit for it. Another few days of "wait" for shipping and I'll move on. Still haven't heard it run any length of time. I will say that I expected to work on the carb from day one, but was hoping to get through the summer.

I think this boat just don't like me... Smile FU
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Wimperdink
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol or your boat has a lot of "quit" in it. Smile FU
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Calico
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hee hee! You're getting there!
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah its getting there. It would be different if I could run into town and buy parts for it but since it's an 80's it's all order them in.

I guess I could have adjusted the float and tried that but since I'm going to have it apart I might as well do it right.

I have alot of quit and wait time on this because I work evening and only have a few hours in the morning to work on it. On Sunday and Mondays I know I can assomplish much more then I can the rest of the week.
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Things didn't go as planned and I didn't get the carb kit in time for "my weekend" So I went out this morning and messed around with it. I adjusted the float, and there was a spring loaded pin in the bottom. Dont know what it does..lol but it was stuck open. I pressed it up and down until it moved free. I put it back together, cleaned the plugs again (not sure why) and turned it over. It took a little while but It soon fired. Will need to set the timming on it but I think I'm VERY close where it is. Runs smooth with no miss or abnormal sounds. Ran it for about 20 minutes and checked the oil... no signs of water. oil pressure sits about 40psi at idle. No backfire, pops, etc when giving it a little gas. Water temp stayed at about 130.

Might need a new starter, it was weak when I got it and has only gotten worse with the issues I've had.
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Calico
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good deal, won't you be nervous putting it in the water the first time? I never go far and usually upwind Laughing
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's really sad to say... but yes. Doesn't matter how much work has been done. Even the last boat was a decent runner and never left us stranded but you still have the fact that something may go wrong in your head... It is more of "what is bound to happen now?" more then anything.

I think it will be a fun boat for our family. It will take awhile for that feeling to go away. If there are no more issues with it this year and next spring when the cover comes off and with a turn of the key it starts right up...lol the feelings will start to disappear
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Calico
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You and I think a lot alike. I've usually got that nagging thought but lately I've been better about saying to heck with it I'll make it up as I go along if something goes wrong. Beer helps calm my mind also Very Happy
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hear you... I've come to that conclusion as well. It's not worth woring about whats going to happen.. worry about it when it happens....

You can't fix something that isn't broke.... well you can but whats the point?
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Dave JZ
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So we had the boat out today.. Took it around the lake to see what it would do... spent maybe 10 minutes on it at WOT. Took it to the dock and shut if off. Loaded up the rest of the kids, wife etc and left the dock. Got about 50ft from the dock and it died. Would not restart. Got back to shore and tore the carb apart again because it started to puke fuel again. I believe the float was getting stuck on the side of the carb, however when I took it apart the rubber to the accelerator jet came apart. Got it to run good enough to have some fun just not great out of the hole. Also have an exhaust manifold gasket leaking. Not a real issue.

Heres the real bad. When I left dock the first time Oil Pressure was sitting at 40.. would go up a bit when I gave it some throttle but not alot. After about 2 hours of boating there was a gradual drop down to about 20psi and would not budge. I checked oil, etc and all seemed good. Pulled the oil fill off and valves were wet from oil. We loaded it up and headed home. I guess start easy and go from there.. I'll pull the filter, and change see what it does, go on to the sensor. My Neighbor has one I can use to test with as well as a gauge. If all else fails it looks like the motor might be pulled out again. Any Ideas?
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From my automotive experience, a hot idle psi of 20 isn't bad. Now if it wasn't going up when throttle was applied, that may be an issue.

If there was NO fluctuation with throttle at all, I'd lean toward sender/gauge/etc. as there should be at least a little.

Good luck Very Happy
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